Automatic Pattern Generation Process for Made-to-Measure

Hosun Lim, Cynthia L. Istook


The objectives of this study were to analyze the automatic pattern generation process for making custom fit garment using the made-to-measure (MTM) CAD system, which produces apparel products based on individual body measurements, and to provide basic materials for the utilization of this technology in apparel manufacturing for mass customization. In order to make MTM patterns, basic patterns were digitized by using the Gerber CAD system, and designated critical alteration points based on body measurements important for pattern design. Then, grading rules and alteration rules based on the ASTM 5585 standard sizes were formulated, size tables for entering standard sizes and individual sizes were made, and MTM patterns were generated for custom fit garment according to individual body measurements. In the apparel manufacturing process, the computer-aided design (CAD) system for pattern design has been utilized merely for digitizing and grading patterns, and the application of individual size has usually been made through manual work on the patterns. The MTM CAD system in this study is expected to be utilized as a computer-aided manufacture system for the clothing industry in the age of mass customization and to play an important role in manufacturing custom fit garment reflecting individual customers’ body measurements. Moreover, the MTM CAD system may be usable in the automated pattern generation reflecting individual body measurements.

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