Advancements in Pattern Coloration for Jacquard Woven Tapestry Fabrics

Kavita Mathur


Designing Jacquard fabrics is a very creative and technical process that is dependent upon the ability of the textile designer to be able to combine aesthetic sensibility with a strong knowledge of the technology of materials, textile design, color and fabric production machinery. Jacquard weaving provides the opportunity for designing an enormous number of complex pictorial and other patterning effects using combinations of warp colors, filling colors and integrated weaves. In Jacquard woven fabrics, the structural creation of shapes and images is relatively easy, but accurate control of color rendering of intimately blended pre-colored yarns is a critical and difficult-to-control attribute. Multiple trials are often required for successful color reproduction in order to match the original artwork. This is a very time consuming and costly process.

Integration of CAD systems with Jacquard weaving technologies over the years has revolutionized the entire design process. Computer simulation has definitely aid in designating particular structural colorations, but accurate color rendering using CAD systems is still challenging. The use of colorimetry has helped to achieve better reproducibility and accuracy in the shade matching of the textile products. However, no commercial system is available for accurate color imaging of Jacquard weave designs without first making the structural color effect in prototype form.

In this paper, a review is done on the available CAD systems used in woven fabric industry, and research to-date related to automation in jacquard designing and coloration. Based on the review, a systematic approach to integrate the most suitable geometric and color model is proposed as an add-on feature/tool for any CAD system. This add-on feature/tool will assist the designers to accurately predict the final color for these complex woven Jacquard woven structure without creating any samples, and there-by help in reducing the sampling cost, increase the accuracy and productivity.

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